Article: Stone
Enhancement
I sometimes
have customers ask for stones that haven't been "treated."
With trends like simplifying your life, feng shui, and "going
organic" gaining mainstream approval, it's no wonder this concept
would find a place in the jewelry world. The idea that something comes
straight out of the ground and into a ring has a certain pristine
appeal.
But after years
of dealing with jewelry and gems from all over the world, I have
discovered that there is no such thing as an unaltered gemstone.
I can already hear cries of "foul" coming to me through
the ether, so let me explain why I believe this and why I think
this actually a good thing.
For the sake
of this discussion, we are referring to what is commonly called
"commercial grade" gemstones: semiprecious stones that
are moderately priced and used in large quantities. Rainbow moonstone,
labradorite, all the agates (like onyx, chalcedony, carnelian, etc.),
jasper, jade, peridot, citrine, garnet, amethyst, iolite, lapis,
quartz, some topaz and a handful of other stones that we carry are
all used by the jewelry trade in vast quantities.
Unless that
stone in your ring still has the dirt on it from the mine, has not
been polished, tumbled or cabbed, it has been enhanced. For thousands
of years, man has made gemstones more attractive by carving, drilling,
cutting and setting them in jewelry. Just polishing a stone is a
form of enhancement. Gemstone enhancement is in fact what we have
come to expect.
Like any technology,
the procurement and processing of gemstones has undergone change
over time. Mining techniques have improved to increase productivity
and quality. Likewise, techniques used to improve the appearance
of gemstones have also become more sophisticated. Enhancing stones
is nothing new, and enhancements are market driven. Most people
wouldn't be happy with un-enhanced jewelry.
You may be thinking
about a certain jewelry seller you have bought from in the past
that offers a promise or guarantee regarding his or her stones.
Consider that the vast majority of the stones used in commercial
jewelry making come from places like Brazil, China, India or Russia,
where there is a huge economy of scale happening. There is no "provenance"
as antique dealers call it. Police refer to it as a chain of custody.
Whatever name you give it, there is no telling exactly what has
happened to a particular piece of rock once it enters the vast confluence
of the commercial gemstone system.
So there is
no way to trace exactly what has happened to the stone between when
it was plucked from earth to when it was set in jewelry. You can
perform tests that will tell you if it is dyed or irradiated, but
even then you can't be sure because many of the treatments are not
100% detectable.
What is the
net result of enhancement? Nice looking stones that feed the demand
for good quality, appealing jewelry and beads at an affordable price.
Technologies like heat treatment, irradiation, dying, etc., are
not deceptions. They are not meant to trick an unsuspecting public
into paying more for a lesser quality piece. Quite the opposite,
treated stones are inexpensive but often look as nice as much more
expensive specimens.
November Birthstones:
Topaz and Citrine
Topaz
Topaz derives its name from one of two sources-- it might be derived
from the Sanskrit word tapas meaning fire, or from the Island of Topazos
in the Red Sea. In ancient times, the figure of a falcon carved on
topaz was thought to help acquire the goodwill of kings, princes and
magnates.
Topaz comes
in a wide range of colors, from colorless (the most common) through
light blue to golden orange and even pale red (the most highly prized
color). Modern technology allows us to make in the lab what occurs
only rarely in nature. Blue topaz is generally clear topaz that
has been heat treated or irradiated, while green and multicolored
Topazes are coatings applied to clear Topaz.
The Egyptians
believed that topaz was colored with the glow of the mighty sun
god Ra. They made topaz into amulets with the power to protect the
faithful from harm. The Romans associated topaz with Jupiter, also
is god of the sun.
It is said that
you should only wear Topaz if you wish to be clear sighted. Legend
has it that it enhances both clarity and eyesight! Ancient Greeks
said it was useful to increase one's strength and could make a person
invisible in times of emergency. Topaz is also said to cure insomnia,
asthma and to stop hemorrhaging.
The Braganza,
the Portuguese Crown, contains a giant specimen that is said to
be the most famous piece of Topaz. It was originally thought to
be a diamond.
Naturally occurring
blue Topaz is found in Texas and the Ural Mountains of Russia. Colorless
Topaz, used for enhancement into blue Topaz, comes from mines in
Brazil, Sri Lanka, Nigeria and China.
Citrine
Citrine is yellow quartz, with a Mohs scale hardness of 7. The name
is derived from the old French word for lemon, "citrin."
Quartz is the most abundant mineral comprising about 12% of the
Earth's crust. It is found in all three types of rocks: igneous,
metamorphic and sedimentary. Primarily mined in Brazil, it is more
common and thus much less expensive than the similar appearing yellow
topaz or yellow sapphire, which it is sometimes sold as by unscrupulous
dealers.
Mental powers
are thought to be stimulated by this sunny yellow stone. It is thought
to enhance creativity and intuition, and to bolster self confidence.
New age practitioners also say it inspires warmth and prosperity,
as well as assisting in the the realization of personal goals. Healers
say it should be used in times of stress or when a decision is being
made as it helps to calm the mind and improves insight. Powerful
stuff!
On a physical
level, Citrine is used as a cleanser. It is meant to cleanse the
body of toxins and help in the regeneration of tissues. Many believe
it is essential in maintaining the health of the digestive, circulatory
and urinary system. Other properties ascribed to this beautiful
stone include relief from the effects of radiation and chemotherapy,
and as an assistant in the absorption of antioxidants.
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